They say nothing good ever comes easily, and that’s certainly true of the journey to MATHIS Lodge Amed, an idyllic resort nestled amidst the rolling hills and black sand beaches of Bali’s east coast.
Several hours from the tourist hubs of Canggu and Ubud, Amed feels like a retreat to the island as it was decades earlier. Traffic thins out. Roadside clusters of Western-style cafés and coworking spaces disappear, and the seaside highway gives way to winding mountain roads.
At last, the route dips down into a small beach town. Tired travellers are greeted by narrow lanes, dive shops, and pristine blue waters full of bobbing jukung boats – but the trip isn’t over quite yet. From the designated pick-up point in Amed, there is another 20-minute ride uphill. The roads in this remote part of the island are still unfinished, and loose rocks and jagged potholes make for slow and bumpy going.
The reward is clear as soon as the tires hit smooth pavement again at the crest of a hill. Ahead, the view unfurls in lush tropical greenery, a warmly lit, open-air restaurant, and a series of lodges tucked away in the valley’s nooks and crannies. The cherry on top: A sprawling, glassy pool and wooden deck that look out over the sparkling sea below.
As dusk settles here, the only sounds are ferns rustling in the wind and the chirp of crickets. Hospitality is paramount, and the welcome is warm; staff members instantly usher arriving guests to their seats and cart luggage off to rooms. Welcome drinks are served alongside cold towels, a respite after the long journey.
Each of the property’s 20 private lodges is chic and minimalist, with nods to local Balinese architecture; Bamboo, earth tones, and thoughtful touches abound. Ceramics and stonework perch in alcoves carved into one wall, more art museum than hotel, while tree trunk nightstands and raw wood furniture make the whole room feel grounded. To one side, a large wardrobe contains storage space, a safe for valuables, and a mini fridge. Complimentary tea, coffee, and drinking water are always stocked. The bathroom is spacious and half open-air, complete with rain shower, small rock garden, and discreet baskets full of amenities.
Finally, the piece de resistance. Sliding doors open onto a wood-floored terrace with an unbroken ocean view. There is a large white day bed on one end, and a couch with a coffee table on the other. The sun appears over the sea just out front, so early risers can watch the sky come alive in soft streaks of pink and pale orange, or wake to a bedroom already bathed in golden light.
Each morning, an indulgent breakfast of fresh juice, fruit, toast, and a choice of Bali coffee or tea awaits, paired perfectly with a selection of flavourful, photo-worthy dishes (overnight oats, American pancakes, scrambled tofu, and more).
Overall, the MATHIS menu is brimming with both Indonesian and Western dishes–from classics like gado-gado and nasi goreng to indulgent plates of creamy mushroom gnocchi. Diners can also opt for a chef-driven set menu that includes canapés, a choice of main meat or seafood, elevated BBQ sides, salad, and dessert.
The same shuttle service that carries guests up the hill runs back into town every hour on the half-hour, perfect for self-guided snorkelling or hiking trips. However, between cushy accommodation, an onsite restaurant/bar, and a long list of lodge-organized activities and excursions, there’s hardly a reason to leave the property on your own.
Sign up for a Balinese cooking class and learn to make traditional treats under the expert guidance of the resident chef. Explore Amed’s famously wildlife-rich waters on a snorkelling trip, dive, or sunset cruise. Or simply settle into the full-service spa, which offers Balinese massages, flower baths, Jacuzzi soaks, and more.
However, your time is spent at this pristine retreat, it is almost a guarantee that you will emerge better than you arrived. And as the cratered road takes you back towards routine and responsibilities, it will be with a clear mind, enriched senses, and full heart.
